A Brief History of the Iconic, Dare I Say (Ahem), Pussy Bow Scarf

Cover art by Eduardo Garcia Benito, Vogue, October 1935 Photo: Getty Images

Unless you are living under a rock, and, well, let’s face it, you could be at the moment seeing as how we are all trapped in our homes—unless you live in Florida, which from what I hear, they are all just running amuck, and I can’t say I’m not a little jealous. But let’s not get political. People are running amuck everywhere, like at The Capitol, as just one small example. Regardless, pussy bows are everywhere.

Let’s talk about that name for a hot second, which came under scrutiny a few years back when Melania Trump wore a hot pink pussy bow Gucci blouse to the second presidential debate shortly after a leaked video of her husband, The Donald, used the “p” word to describe only the most beautiful, sacred part of a woman’s anatomy—her actual flower. Ew. Was it just a coincidence, or a silent rebellion? Vogue wrote more on it here. She “donned” the style again later in black.

According to a 1934 description of a little girl’s dress, it’s a “cunning bow that ties high under the chin and looks for all the world like those we put on Pussy Cat when company’s coming.” If you’d like to see this in action, do watch Bridgerton, which although it’s said to take place in 1813, let me just declare “pussy galore”—also a D.C. rock band from the 80s. You can thank me later.

Although men had been wearing the style for ages, it didn’t make its way into high fashion for women until Coco Chanel began incorporating it into her dresses in the 1950s. Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic Le Smoking Suit was worn with the scarf when it debuted in 1966.

Yves Saint Laurent’s Smoking Suit with a pussy bow scarf.

While the pussy bow existed in high fashion throughout the 60s, it was only when it came into popular culture and became readily accessible for the everyday woman that it entered feminist territory. During the PBS documentary Makers: Women Who Make America, Hewlett-Packard CEO Meg Whitman explained that during the late-1960s, '70s and '80s, women joining the workplace were faced with a predicament: “What do you wear? How do you blend into a masculine workplace while still holding onto some sense of femininity?”

The answer was to mix men's basics with a feminine influence. "We used to dress in suits with a skirt and a jacket with button-down shirts and a little bow tie, because that was sort of our interpretation of the man's tie," Whitman said. "It was our attempt to be feminine but fit into what was then a male world." That little bow tie she is referring to was the pussy bow.

Lady Diana Spencer, 1981 Photo: Getty Images

Powerful women started to wear the style more regularly, with Margaret Thatcher and Princess Diana wearing them throughout the '80s. Jane Fonda wore a pussy bow blouse in the 1980 classic “9 to 5” (two words: Dolly Parton). Peggy Olsen on “Mad Men” wore pussy bows toward the show's end as she became more powerful in the workplace in the late-1960s.

It’s been worn by nearly every first lady in American history. Maybe Melania’s pussy bows were strategic after all, and not that it was bad for fashion. Almost instantaneously after Trump showed up to the debate in that fuchsia Gucci blouse, it sold out. Melania Trump, perhaps inadvertently, started a full-fledged revival of one of the most quietly feminist garments in history.

In 2018, pussy bow scarves became less quietly feminine as they were being worn by celebrities and activists in America and other countries as a symbol of solidarity to show support for the #metoo movement against sexual harassment.

Kate Middleton Photo: Getty Images

And if there was any question that the pussy bow scarf has cemented itself in pop culture icon status, just watch “The Real Housewives of Salt Lake City” for Lisa Barlow’s pussy bow style or “Watch What Happens Live With Andy Cohen,” where last week, Madison LeCroy of “Southern Charm” wore an ultra feminine floral pussy bow with an ultra feminine floral frock on the late show. Kate Middleton wears them now.

Like I said in the beginning though, let’s not talk about politics. Get yours here.